Sustainable Agriculture Extension Manual
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Zero-grazing
Zero-grazing means keeping animals in a stall, and bringing
fodder to them instead of allowing them to graze outside. It is also sometimes
called "cut-and-carry". The description below is about how to
keep dairy cattle using zero-grazing. It is an intensive system that produces
a lot of milk from a small amount of land.
Zero-grazing can also be used with goats and sheep. They
can be kept in a shed with a slatted wood or bamboo floor, raised about
1 m above the ground. The droppings fall through the slats into a pit
beneath the shed. They can then be carried away to be used as fertilizer.
Location
Zero-grazing is especially useful in areas where land
is scarce. It requires a reliable source of feed, and sufficient labour
to cut and carry the feed.
Advantages
- Zero-grazing reduces the number of pests (especially ticks and intestinal
worms), since the animals do not graze on infested pastures.
- It allows the intensive use of land for growing fodder, and maximizes
the use of the available land.
- It reduces damage to crops caused by grazing cattle.
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Disadvantages
- This method requires labour to cut and carry the feed and to fetch
water.
- Building and maintaining the shed and pit take money and labour.
Requirements
- Building materials for the cattle shed (wood, cement, sand, gravel,
posts, roofing).
- Field to grow fodder.
Shed construction
1. Choose where to build the cattle shed. This should
be close to a reliable source of clean water, as cattle can drink up to
100 litres of water a day. If possible, build the shed near a field where
you can grow fodder.
2. Build the shed (see the diagrams for a suggested design).
The roof can cover the whole pen, or just the animal cubicles. It should
slope away from the pen so rainwater does not fall into the pen. The roof
can be made of metal or thatch; thatch is cooler but must be repaired
regularly and can catch fire. The roof should slope from a height of about
2.7 m (9 feet) at one side, down to about 2 m (7 feet, high enough for
a person to stand up in).
3. The walking area should have a floor made of concrete
or hard-packed soil. Concrete is better, as this is where the animals
will spend most of their time, and concrete is easy to clean. The floor
should slope gently (2 cm drop in every 1 m distance, or 2.5 inches in
10 feet) towards a channel leading to a manure pit outside the pen. The
concrete can be made from a mix of 1 part of cement, 2 parts of gravel
and 3 parts of sand. The floor should not be made too smooth, otherwise
the cattle may slip on it.
4. Dig a manure pit, large enough to hold the manure
produced in 2-3 days. Dig a channel leading from the walking area to the
pit, and line the channel and pit with concrete. If you cannot afford
concrete, make a paste of red soil, cow dung and ash. Smear this paste
on the sides and bottom of the pit. Allow it to dry, then smear on another
layer. Repeat this five times to build up a leak-proof layer.
5. Cover the pit with a plastic sheet or banana leaves
to reduce the amount of sunlight hitting the manure. Sunlight causes the
nitrogen in the manure to escape into the air, so reduces the value of
the manure as fertilizer.
6. Make individual cubicles 120 cm wide x 210 cm long
(4 feet x 7 feet), one for each cow. The cubicle floors should be made
of dry soil, as cattle prefer to lie on soil rather than on cold concrete.
The cubicle floors should be higher than the concrete floor of the walking
area and should slope slightly toward the concrete. The cubicles should
be just large enough so the urine and dung should drop onto the concrete
area; this keeps the cubicles clean.
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7. For calves, you can put in temporary barriers of wood to make
the pens smaller: about 120 cm wide x 150 cm long (4 feet x 5 feet). The
floor of the calf pens should be raised about 4 cm (1.5 inches) and should
be made of slatted wood. This helps keep the floor clean, and protects
the calf from diseases.
8. Set aside parts of the stall for a milking area and
as a store for feed.
9. Provide troughs for water and feed in the walking
area and the calf pen. Provide a feed trough in the milking area so the
cows can feed during milking.
Diagram of a shed for two cows. The roof should cover
the whole shed; part has been cut away to show the inside of the shed.
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Fodder
1. Plant fodder crops near to the shed so you do not
have to carry the feed too far. About 0.4 ha (1 acre) of Napier grass
is enough for each graded dairy cow. If the Napier grass is intercropped
with desmodium or other legumes, 0.3 ha (0.75 acre) is enough for one
cow; 0.4 ha of Napier and desmodium is enough to feed a cow and a calf.
See the section on Growing Napier grass for fodder for more information.
2. Plant the fodder grass in rows, and dig a shallow
trench in between each row. You can put the manure slurry into these trenches
to fertilize the grass.
Feeding and management
1. Every day, cut fresh grass and feed to the cattle.
Make sure the feed troughs are never empty.
2. Provide as much water as the animals want to drink.
3. Hang solid mineral blocks (you can get these from
feed stores) for the animals to lick. Or you can put powder minerals in
a wooden box with an open top, and fix the box in the pen for the animals
to lick.
4. Clean the walking area every
morning. Pour water on the concrete and sweep
all the manure towards the manure pit. Every
2-3 days, remove the manure slurry from the
pit and use it to fertilize the fodder grass.
You can also use the manure to fertilize other
crops (see the section on Urine-manure slurry
as fertilizer).
Do's
- Protect the stall from predators such as hyenas and jackals.
- If the area is very hot, you can roof the walking area as well
as the shed. Otherwise, you can leave the walking area open.
- If necessary, put straw in the pens as bedding for the animals.
- Make sure the animals have enough space to be comfortable.
Keep the stall clean.
- Watch carefully for pests and diseases, and treat them early.
- Keep the bull separate from the cows. Watch the cows carefully
for signs of heat so you know when to breed them.
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Don'ts
- Don't use roadside grasses as feed, as they can spread pests
such as ticks, and diseases such as foot-and-mouth disease.
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